General QuestionsA. Is a pet mouse the right fit for my family?
B. Can I give a mouse to my children? C. Do mice stink? D. Can I breed my mice? E. How should I introduce a new mouse to my current mice? F. I don't want my mouse anymore. Can I let it go? |
Health ConcernsA. Should I take my mouse to the vet?
B. Weight Loss or Gain C. Strange Growths D. Sneezing E. Seizures F. Hair Loss G. Hibernation H. Blood |
GENERAL QUESTIONS
Q. Is a pet mouse the right fit for my family?
A. That depends on a lot of different factors! A few things to consider:
Q. Can I give a mouse to my children?
A. While mice relatively easy pets to take care of and take less time and energy than a larger animal, they still require regular care. Daily tasks include checking to make sure the mouse's food and water are full, and an important weekly task is changing the bedding / cleaning the cage. If your child is capable of these basic tasks on their own, and can be trusted to handle them gently, then I would say yes! Just remember that as a parent or guardian, it's ultimately your responsibility to step in if your child forgets a task or begins to neglect their pet.
Q. Do mice stink?
A. Mice smell like mice! Some people don't mind it at all, while others are more sensitive. Regular cage cleanings and using good substrate (bedding) for your pet rodents will help manage their natural odors. Male mice do have a muskier odor than females, so if you're concerned I would encourage you to keep a small group of females instead of a male.
Q. Can I breed my mice?
A. The most important question is why you want to breed your mice. If you want a steady supply of feeders, you'll find that purchasing them from a local supplier is often cheaper (and much less work). If you think baby mice are cute and want to watch them grow up, I would caution you to simply watch videos and blogs of the process instead. You'll quickly become overrun with dozens of young mice and, if kept improperly or stressed, adult mice may eat their babies, leaving you with a rather gruesome scene. You also have to be prepared to accurately sex (determine the genders of) any pups and separate them at the appropriate time. Males will impregnate any females left in their cage, even if they're related.
To successfully breed mice, you must:
Q. How should I introduce a new mouse to my current mice?
A. The best practice is to quarantine your new pet in a different area of your home for at least two weeks before introducing them to your current mice. This way you'll be able to see if your new mouse is sick or has any health issues before it gets passed to the rest of the group! Once the new mouse is ready, take both old and new mice out of their cages and put them together into a small travel carrier. While they're becoming acquainted in this neutral territory (for about half an hour), clean their permanent cage thoroughly to remove the original mouse's scent, and rearrange everything the cage so it's like new. When you're done you can put them all back into the new cage together, preferably with a couple "welcome home" treats. The cleaning and re-arranging will help any current mice not feel as strong of a need to defend their territory against this strange newcomer. Some squeaking and running around is to be expected (it's like a roommate squabble) but you should separate them to different cages immediately if any blood is drawn.
Remember, only introduce female mice to other females! Male mice need to be kept by themselves.
Q. I don't want my mouse anymore. Can I let it go?
A. Never, EVER release your mouse "into the wild". Fancy mice have been domesticated for hundreds of years and are no longer suited to live outside. Not only will your pet most likely fall prey to a terrible death via housecat or neighbor's glue trap, it could become a harmful invasive species in your area and even introduce new diseases / bacteria to local wildlife. Instead, attempt to find a new home for your mouse. If you're local to Alaska and purchased mice from me directly, I'm happy to take them back at any time. Otherwise, try posting an ad to Facebook or Craigslist, or as a last resort you may drop them off at your local animal shelter.
A. That depends on a lot of different factors! A few things to consider:
- Do you have the extra money and time to care for a new pet?
- Can you commit to a mouse's full 2-3 year lifespan?
- Are pet mice allowed in your apartment/house?
- Is anyone in your family allergic?
Q. Can I give a mouse to my children?
A. While mice relatively easy pets to take care of and take less time and energy than a larger animal, they still require regular care. Daily tasks include checking to make sure the mouse's food and water are full, and an important weekly task is changing the bedding / cleaning the cage. If your child is capable of these basic tasks on their own, and can be trusted to handle them gently, then I would say yes! Just remember that as a parent or guardian, it's ultimately your responsibility to step in if your child forgets a task or begins to neglect their pet.
Q. Do mice stink?
A. Mice smell like mice! Some people don't mind it at all, while others are more sensitive. Regular cage cleanings and using good substrate (bedding) for your pet rodents will help manage their natural odors. Male mice do have a muskier odor than females, so if you're concerned I would encourage you to keep a small group of females instead of a male.
Q. Can I breed my mice?
A. The most important question is why you want to breed your mice. If you want a steady supply of feeders, you'll find that purchasing them from a local supplier is often cheaper (and much less work). If you think baby mice are cute and want to watch them grow up, I would caution you to simply watch videos and blogs of the process instead. You'll quickly become overrun with dozens of young mice and, if kept improperly or stressed, adult mice may eat their babies, leaving you with a rather gruesome scene. You also have to be prepared to accurately sex (determine the genders of) any pups and separate them at the appropriate time. Males will impregnate any females left in their cage, even if they're related.
To successfully breed mice, you must:
- Have money to spend, to manage both startup and maintenance costs. The food and bedding alone will cost more than any mice you may be able to sell. You'll be operating at a net loss, so don't get into breeding expecting to earn money!
- Be extremely familiar with mouse genetics, including the genetics of your own stock and potentially lethal / problematic genetic combinations.
- Be extremely familiar with mouse health, illness, and disease, be able to recognize a variety of signs and symptoms, AND be willing to spend money on their treatment.
- Have the time to clean and maintain many different mouse enclosures.
- Keep diligent health and genetic records.
- Be able and willing to humanely euthanize mouse pups and adults for health reasons.
- Be able to accurately sex mouse pups and separate them to different enclosures at the appropriate time.
- Accept that your home will smell like mice. Even with a diligent cleaning schedule, keeping enough mice to maintain a healthy breeding program will have an unavoidable odor.
Q. How should I introduce a new mouse to my current mice?
A. The best practice is to quarantine your new pet in a different area of your home for at least two weeks before introducing them to your current mice. This way you'll be able to see if your new mouse is sick or has any health issues before it gets passed to the rest of the group! Once the new mouse is ready, take both old and new mice out of their cages and put them together into a small travel carrier. While they're becoming acquainted in this neutral territory (for about half an hour), clean their permanent cage thoroughly to remove the original mouse's scent, and rearrange everything the cage so it's like new. When you're done you can put them all back into the new cage together, preferably with a couple "welcome home" treats. The cleaning and re-arranging will help any current mice not feel as strong of a need to defend their territory against this strange newcomer. Some squeaking and running around is to be expected (it's like a roommate squabble) but you should separate them to different cages immediately if any blood is drawn.
Remember, only introduce female mice to other females! Male mice need to be kept by themselves.
Q. I don't want my mouse anymore. Can I let it go?
A. Never, EVER release your mouse "into the wild". Fancy mice have been domesticated for hundreds of years and are no longer suited to live outside. Not only will your pet most likely fall prey to a terrible death via housecat or neighbor's glue trap, it could become a harmful invasive species in your area and even introduce new diseases / bacteria to local wildlife. Instead, attempt to find a new home for your mouse. If you're local to Alaska and purchased mice from me directly, I'm happy to take them back at any time. Otherwise, try posting an ad to Facebook or Craigslist, or as a last resort you may drop them off at your local animal shelter.
HEALTH CONCERNS
Q. Should I take my mouse to the vet?
A. Mice don't benefit from regular "check-ups" like most other pets, so there's no need for a visit unless you have a serious health concern that isn't addressed here. If you do find yourself needing an exotic vet, call ahead to make sure they are experienced in treating fancy mice specifically.
Q. Weight Loss or Gain
For thin mice: Check to ensure they have plenty of food and clean water, and check to make sure any water bottles are dispensing water correctly. Make sure they have unlimited access to a high-quality mouse-specific Lab Block food (like Mazuri or Oxbow). You may temporarily feed extra treats and veggies with high water content to aid in weight gain and to make sure they're sufficiently hydrated.
If all food and environmental factors are correct but your mouse appears to be hunched, dehydrated, and "wasting away" (accompanied by diarrhea or bloody stool) your mouse may have contracted coccidiosis -- a parasitic disease of the intestinal tract. Fancy mice can contract this disease via contact with infected food or bedding. If caught early, an experienced vet may be able to prescribe your mouse medication -- the most common treatment is a drug marketed as Baycox with the active ingredient Toltrazuril, at the weaker (2.5%) strength. Alternatives include Harker's Coxoid (common to pigeon fanciers). This disease thrives in damp environments so a clean, dry cage is very important.
For fat mice: Make 100% sure your mice are in same-sex groups to avoid pregnancy -- even a few minutes with a male mouse can result in a pregnancy! This is the most common cause of a "fat" female mouse. Other simple causes include too many treats and not enough natural exercise options (like a running wheel). Only offer your mouse a mouse-specific block food (like Mazuri or Oxbow) as this has all of the nutrients they need, without treats. If your mouse is constipated or gassy, they might appear to be very fat, like they swallowed a tiny golf ball. Offer high-quality hay fiber (sold in pet stores) and fresh vegetables high in water content to help them pass the obstruction. Serious cases of mice with rounded stomachs could be a result of internal biological issues, which are unfortunately often untreatable.
See also "Strange Growths" (below) if the fat placement is lopsided or occurs away from the stomach area.
A. Mice don't benefit from regular "check-ups" like most other pets, so there's no need for a visit unless you have a serious health concern that isn't addressed here. If you do find yourself needing an exotic vet, call ahead to make sure they are experienced in treating fancy mice specifically.
Q. Weight Loss or Gain
For thin mice: Check to ensure they have plenty of food and clean water, and check to make sure any water bottles are dispensing water correctly. Make sure they have unlimited access to a high-quality mouse-specific Lab Block food (like Mazuri or Oxbow). You may temporarily feed extra treats and veggies with high water content to aid in weight gain and to make sure they're sufficiently hydrated.
If all food and environmental factors are correct but your mouse appears to be hunched, dehydrated, and "wasting away" (accompanied by diarrhea or bloody stool) your mouse may have contracted coccidiosis -- a parasitic disease of the intestinal tract. Fancy mice can contract this disease via contact with infected food or bedding. If caught early, an experienced vet may be able to prescribe your mouse medication -- the most common treatment is a drug marketed as Baycox with the active ingredient Toltrazuril, at the weaker (2.5%) strength. Alternatives include Harker's Coxoid (common to pigeon fanciers). This disease thrives in damp environments so a clean, dry cage is very important.
For fat mice: Make 100% sure your mice are in same-sex groups to avoid pregnancy -- even a few minutes with a male mouse can result in a pregnancy! This is the most common cause of a "fat" female mouse. Other simple causes include too many treats and not enough natural exercise options (like a running wheel). Only offer your mouse a mouse-specific block food (like Mazuri or Oxbow) as this has all of the nutrients they need, without treats. If your mouse is constipated or gassy, they might appear to be very fat, like they swallowed a tiny golf ball. Offer high-quality hay fiber (sold in pet stores) and fresh vegetables high in water content to help them pass the obstruction. Serious cases of mice with rounded stomachs could be a result of internal biological issues, which are unfortunately often untreatable.
See also "Strange Growths" (below) if the fat placement is lopsided or occurs away from the stomach area.
Left: Mouse of a healthy weight
Middle and Right: Mice that are overweight While overweight or obese mice can still live happy, normal lives, they may not live as long as a healthy-weight mouse and could develop hidden side effects such as diabetes. Some mice are born with a gene that makes them overweight regardless of diet, so limiting their food will not make them lose weight and is not recommended. Yellow, gold, and sable colored mice are more likely to have the "overweight gene" than other varieties. |
Q. Strange Growths
A. A vet may be required to determine whether a growth is a cyst or a tumor. A cyst might be harmless and carefully drained by a vet, but there's generally nothing that can be done for a tumor, which are unfortunately fairly common in older mice.
Q. Sneezing
A. An occasional sneeze here and there is ok! Constant sneezing or chattering, however, may be a sign of an upper respiratory infection. An experienced vet may be able to prescribe your mouse some medication and, if treated early, they'll recover just fine. To prevent infections, make sure to quarantine any new mice for at least a month before introducing them to your current pets. Also make sure all mouse enclosures are kept clean in a warm, room-temperature area free of cold drafts. Dirty cages, dusty bedding, or too-cold rooms may cause respiratory distress. Some mice can develop allergies to types of wood and wood shavings, so in these cases it's best to use paper-based bedding products.
Q. Seizures
A. Accidental poisoning is the most common cause of shaking or seizures in small rodents. Has a young child or recent visitor feed your mouse something strange? Additionally, check the area around your mouse's cage to see if anything may be falling in or seeping through (aerosol sprays, chipped paint, etc). Make sure that everything inside of the cage is safe and free of potential contaminates. Mice will chew on anything they can reach, so everything placed into or on top of the cage must be certified mouse-safe. Some bedding is known to cause seizures in mice, especially cedar products. Other types of wood shavings may be harmful if they have not been kiln-dried to specifically remove dangerous oils, even if they were sold as a "pet product". Immediately inspect and replace all toys and bedding, scrub out the cage with a pet-safe cleaning solution, and switch to scent-free paper bedding products.
Q. Hair Loss
A. Sometimes a mouse will over-enthusiastically groom her friends, leaving them with trimmed whiskers or little balding spots around their head and neck. There's not much to be done here, other than to make sure that their cage isn't too small and has plenty of fun activities to occupy their time (chew toys, a wheel, etc.) Another reason for hair loss may simply be old age -- mouse hair naturally thins with time, much like ours. However, extreme balding over the entire body is cause for concern (due to the potential for parasites or skin fungal infections). In these cases, seek veterinary treatment.
Q. Hibernation
A. If your mouse has become cold and stiff or slow-moving (almost as if dead) but is still breathing, they may have gone into torpor. This can occur because of too-cold room temperatures, stress, or lack of food / water. Torpor is a kind of mini hibernation (via lowering their metabolism) that can be very dangerous for your pet. To bring a mouse out of torpor, gently hold them and sit near a heater to slowly raise back up their body temperature. You can also use warmed (not hot) water bottles and towels. Do not use a hair dryer or put them directly into the path of a heat source, as the sudden change of temperature may make them go into shock. After they've warmed up and begin to move around, offer a teaspoon of sugar dissolved in a cup of warm or room-temperature water and some treats (hardboiled egg or bird seed mixes make good treats for this purpose). If you respond quickly, your little pet should make a full recovery.
Q: Blood
A. If you discover blood (on your mouse's tail or rear end especially), separate the injured mouse from any cage mates immediately. The wound means they've been the victim of aggressive fights and are not safe with their current cage mates. If you discover a bit of blood in the cage but no apparent wound, a litter might have been born (and if you don't see any babies, unfortunately eaten). Check to make sure that your mice are in all-female groups to prevent pregnancies.
If you notice blood in your mouse's stool, refer back to the Weight Loss section.
A. A vet may be required to determine whether a growth is a cyst or a tumor. A cyst might be harmless and carefully drained by a vet, but there's generally nothing that can be done for a tumor, which are unfortunately fairly common in older mice.
Q. Sneezing
A. An occasional sneeze here and there is ok! Constant sneezing or chattering, however, may be a sign of an upper respiratory infection. An experienced vet may be able to prescribe your mouse some medication and, if treated early, they'll recover just fine. To prevent infections, make sure to quarantine any new mice for at least a month before introducing them to your current pets. Also make sure all mouse enclosures are kept clean in a warm, room-temperature area free of cold drafts. Dirty cages, dusty bedding, or too-cold rooms may cause respiratory distress. Some mice can develop allergies to types of wood and wood shavings, so in these cases it's best to use paper-based bedding products.
Q. Seizures
A. Accidental poisoning is the most common cause of shaking or seizures in small rodents. Has a young child or recent visitor feed your mouse something strange? Additionally, check the area around your mouse's cage to see if anything may be falling in or seeping through (aerosol sprays, chipped paint, etc). Make sure that everything inside of the cage is safe and free of potential contaminates. Mice will chew on anything they can reach, so everything placed into or on top of the cage must be certified mouse-safe. Some bedding is known to cause seizures in mice, especially cedar products. Other types of wood shavings may be harmful if they have not been kiln-dried to specifically remove dangerous oils, even if they were sold as a "pet product". Immediately inspect and replace all toys and bedding, scrub out the cage with a pet-safe cleaning solution, and switch to scent-free paper bedding products.
Q. Hair Loss
A. Sometimes a mouse will over-enthusiastically groom her friends, leaving them with trimmed whiskers or little balding spots around their head and neck. There's not much to be done here, other than to make sure that their cage isn't too small and has plenty of fun activities to occupy their time (chew toys, a wheel, etc.) Another reason for hair loss may simply be old age -- mouse hair naturally thins with time, much like ours. However, extreme balding over the entire body is cause for concern (due to the potential for parasites or skin fungal infections). In these cases, seek veterinary treatment.
Q. Hibernation
A. If your mouse has become cold and stiff or slow-moving (almost as if dead) but is still breathing, they may have gone into torpor. This can occur because of too-cold room temperatures, stress, or lack of food / water. Torpor is a kind of mini hibernation (via lowering their metabolism) that can be very dangerous for your pet. To bring a mouse out of torpor, gently hold them and sit near a heater to slowly raise back up their body temperature. You can also use warmed (not hot) water bottles and towels. Do not use a hair dryer or put them directly into the path of a heat source, as the sudden change of temperature may make them go into shock. After they've warmed up and begin to move around, offer a teaspoon of sugar dissolved in a cup of warm or room-temperature water and some treats (hardboiled egg or bird seed mixes make good treats for this purpose). If you respond quickly, your little pet should make a full recovery.
Q: Blood
A. If you discover blood (on your mouse's tail or rear end especially), separate the injured mouse from any cage mates immediately. The wound means they've been the victim of aggressive fights and are not safe with their current cage mates. If you discover a bit of blood in the cage but no apparent wound, a litter might have been born (and if you don't see any babies, unfortunately eaten). Check to make sure that your mice are in all-female groups to prevent pregnancies.
If you notice blood in your mouse's stool, refer back to the Weight Loss section.